Pattern Review: Sew Over It: City Break // Molly Top and Dress

As the title says, this is my review of the "Molly" and newest make! I cranked up the brightness on the pictures so you can actually see more than a black blob.
I had made the Molly top quite a while ago, and made the dress version yesterday. I made the top from a viscose jersey and used a Ponte di Roma for the dress.

Likes: I made it in the size 8 and it fits perfectly in the top version.  As a dress it is quite roomy, as I did sew it with a smaller seam allowance to compensate for the lack of stretch in the Ponti, but I need not have done that. The instructions were clear and the whole thing is straightforward anyway. The design is great: especially the curved hem on the top is a winner, as this is a much more flattering shape than a straight hem.

Dislikes: None concerning the pattern or the instructions, but the comparably wide neckband leaves room for error if you are not quite a bit experienced with stretchy fabrics. Which brings us to the next point:

Woopsies: As the book notes, the length of the neckband depends on the fabric, so you have to decide on your own how long to make it. I used the pattern piece from the book both for the top and dress version and it seemed like it was the correct length. And it actually looked perfect just after I had sewn it onto the top. I was so proud. Then I washed it (I had already washed the fabric prior to cutting it)... and it suddenly was all floppy and wobbly. It had stretched. I don't know why that happened. It has nothing to do with the pattern. I guess the strip of fabric was too long after all. To fix this situation I  will flip half of the band over to the inside and stitch it into place.

After I had made the top I knew that I wanted to make the dress version as well. I made it from some Ponte di Roma as suggested in the ebook. It was my first time sewing with this fabric and unfortunately my sewing machine went all weird on it. It skipped stitches or just stitched something completely different (instead of zigzag it sewed "two straight-two zigzag-two straight-wobble wobble-nothing nothing-straight..."). But that only happened when sewing together two layers, the machine was fine when stitching one layer or three layers. It is a mystery to me. I thought maybe the material was too heavy for the needle or tension or whatever, but as it worked just fine with MORE than two layers (or less) I really don't have a clue what the problem was. The only thing I can imagine would be that the two layers of fabric moved in a mysterious and non-visible manner when the needle pierced it (because I saw the needle going through the correct motions and still there would be a different pattern of stitches on the fabric). I did manage to sew up the dress in the end by using a tiny zigzag, medium tension and stitch length, as this produced the least amount of weird stitches. I also could sew on the neckband with a straight stitch (as that was three layers of fabric). It isn't perfect, but it served the purpose.

Or maybe it was the wrong kind of needle. But I cannot find a ballpoint needle anywhere...

What to improve on next time: The neckband was easier to get kind of right with the Ponti, as it is heavier and keeps it's shape well. But still...  I have the feeling it should sit more... flatly. But I tried to stretch it when sewing it to the bodice and that just made the bodice go all wavy/gathered. So I reattached the collar by not stretching it that much (just a little) and that looked better. I don't know - maybe it is tricky because it is so wide?

Happy sewing everyone! ♥