Wardrobe Architect // 4 Exploring Shapes

Part 4 of the Wardrobe Architect calls for exploring shapes you favour. Having filled out the worksheets in the previous parts this shouldn't be too hard. So for the first time in what must be over a decade I used polyvore:

Shapes of tops...

Shapes of bottoms...

 Shapes of dresses and skirts...

... of cardigans...

Favorite cardi shape is definitely "oversized", and the fitted ones for wearing with skirts

.. and finally shapes of coats...

Is "trench coat" a shape in it's own right? Or parka? Or biker jacket? Second row are definitely shapes: egg shape, oversize and "Gerard Coat Shape"

These are all the important "shapes" I can think of.

Pattern Review: New Look 6483 (easy cami)

Firstly, let me excuse my pale and seemingly somewhat pinkish winter skin to you. I swear I resemble Miss Piggy less in real life.

I got my inspiration to tackle this pattern from the Rosa on the youtube channel "Sewn". As it does not require a lot of fabric I thought it would be the perfect stash buster. I had just a little bit of this marvellous elephant-print cotton left over from making a Tilly and the Buttons "Clemence" skirt. Truly I have to say that this light weight cotton was a better match for this New Look pattern than it was for the "Clemence". I bought the fabric over two years ago and the rests of this fabric were just lying in my fabric stash waiting to be used.

Upsides:

It is a real stash buster! Construction is straightforward and the cute details like the hook and eye in the back and the side slits give it a little extra edge. Also the pattern comes with five variations for sleeves and necklines.

Downside:

The sizing is very odd. I made it according to my measurements but it had so much ease, it looked like a tent. I could have nearly fitted two arms through the armholes. I also had enough room for an extra pair of bosoms. So I guess I either measured something incorrectly or it has massive ease. It did fit me around the hips though. It was just the top half that was so extremely ill fitting. Maybe I will find out if it was my error or of that's just the way the pattern distributed the ease when I make it a second time. Until then I would advise everyone who wants to makes this to carefully inspect and measure the pattern pieces you have cut out. I just took the top in at the side seams where necessary to make it fit better.

What I learnt with this pattern:

Sewing an all-in-one neckline-armhole facing! And I love the look of it. So neat and tidy! I also made side-slits for the first time.

The hook and eye is a nice detail

It is funny how sometimes your feelings towards a garment will change when sewing. I really did not like the top when I had it finished. It may be due to the sizing problem that made me feel a bit frustrated. I have had it hanging the cupboard for quite some time (I think it must be a couple of months actually) and only come to like it now. I can actually see me wearing this when spring comes along.

Happy sewing everyone! ♥

Pattern Review: Sew Over It: City Break // Molly Top and Dress

As the title says, this is my review of the "Molly" and newest make! I cranked up the brightness on the pictures so you can actually see more than a black blob.
I had made the Molly top quite a while ago, and made the dress version yesterday. I made the top from a viscose jersey and used a Ponte di Roma for the dress.

Likes: I made it in the size 8 and it fits perfectly in the top version.  As a dress it is quite roomy, as I did sew it with a smaller seam allowance to compensate for the lack of stretch in the Ponti, but I need not have done that. The instructions were clear and the whole thing is straightforward anyway. The design is great: especially the curved hem on the top is a winner, as this is a much more flattering shape than a straight hem.

Dislikes: None concerning the pattern or the instructions, but the comparably wide neckband leaves room for error if you are not quite a bit experienced with stretchy fabrics. Which brings us to the next point:

Woopsies: As the book notes, the length of the neckband depends on the fabric, so you have to decide on your own how long to make it. I used the pattern piece from the book both for the top and dress version and it seemed like it was the correct length. And it actually looked perfect just after I had sewn it onto the top. I was so proud. Then I washed it (I had already washed the fabric prior to cutting it)... and it suddenly was all floppy and wobbly. It had stretched. I don't know why that happened. It has nothing to do with the pattern. I guess the strip of fabric was too long after all. To fix this situation I  will flip half of the band over to the inside and stitch it into place.

After I had made the top I knew that I wanted to make the dress version as well. I made it from some Ponte di Roma as suggested in the ebook. It was my first time sewing with this fabric and unfortunately my sewing machine went all weird on it. It skipped stitches or just stitched something completely different (instead of zigzag it sewed "two straight-two zigzag-two straight-wobble wobble-nothing nothing-straight..."). But that only happened when sewing together two layers, the machine was fine when stitching one layer or three layers. It is a mystery to me. I thought maybe the material was too heavy for the needle or tension or whatever, but as it worked just fine with MORE than two layers (or less) I really don't have a clue what the problem was. The only thing I can imagine would be that the two layers of fabric moved in a mysterious and non-visible manner when the needle pierced it (because I saw the needle going through the correct motions and still there would be a different pattern of stitches on the fabric). I did manage to sew up the dress in the end by using a tiny zigzag, medium tension and stitch length, as this produced the least amount of weird stitches. I also could sew on the neckband with a straight stitch (as that was three layers of fabric). It isn't perfect, but it served the purpose.

Or maybe it was the wrong kind of needle. But I cannot find a ballpoint needle anywhere...

What to improve on next time: The neckband was easier to get kind of right with the Ponti, as it is heavier and keeps it's shape well. But still...  I have the feeling it should sit more... flatly. But I tried to stretch it when sewing it to the bodice and that just made the bodice go all wavy/gathered. So I reattached the collar by not stretching it that much (just a little) and that looked better. I don't know - maybe it is tricky because it is so wide?

Happy sewing everyone! ♥

Pattern Review // Kwik Sew 4069

I completed the Kwik Sew 4069. It had been on my "to-sew" list since last year. I made the first version in a dark blue, slightly sparkly, light weight stretch fabric and bought some more of the same fabric (but in a different colour) to make a second one. All in all I am very satisfied with this make. Let me share my sewing experience of this pattern with you!

Upside: Only four pattern pieces, simple and very clear sewing instructions.

What you need to know before choosing this pattern:

Beware! The picture on the front does not adequately represent the actual fit of the garments, and the notes on the pattern about just this don't help. On the front cover you see a figure fitting turtleneck and the instructions as well as the pattern pieces warn you that the finished garment will be smaller than your measurements. The instructions also say that you have to use a fabric with at least 75% stretch. I can tell you this: none of this is the case. The finished garment is NOT smaller than your measurements

and you do not need fabric with that much stretch, because of the aforementioned. The garment is loose fitting when you sew it in the size according to your measurements. So a reasonable amount of stretch it enough. I knew in advance that the pattern would be different to the picture and that was the reason I wanted to make it. I wouldn't have bought it if it would be as fitted as in the image on the pattern pouch.  If you would want it to be more fitted, you could just make it a size smaller. 

Woopsies:

On the first version I had to remake the turtleneck-part, as I didn't cut it on the fold but as a single piece. The pattern confused me...it didn't have the little "cut on fold" arrows I am accustomed to... ehem... while sewing it together I thought it looked rather small, but I thought maybe it was supposed to be like that... proportions, distortion... but then I did notice I would never get my head through that little tunnel. I then was certain that I had make a mistake... 

Downside:

For me there are none, as I knew that the finished garment would be very different to the image on the package.



On the left my favoured way of wearing it: tucked in. And on the right picture you can see the actual length of the top.

Can you see the fabric shine and sparkle like Edward? Well I guess you cannot really see it in the pictures, but it actually sparkles ever so slightly when the sunlight hits the face fabric. 

Happy sewing everyone! ♥

Fabric Haul !

I have cashed in a Christmas gift voucher and am now expecting a box of new fabrics!

From top left, clockwise: black Ponte di Roma, dark blue stretch cotton jersey, black and white stretch cotton jersey, red and white stretch cotton jersey

I have a plan for every piece. The Ponte is going to be a "Sew Over It" Molly dress from the ebook "City Break", the dark blue stretch is destined to be a McCalls's M7099 jumpsuit, the grid-stretch and the red stripes are just perfect for two boat-neck tops from "Gertie Sews Vintage Casual".

Happy Sewing and Good Night!

Wardrobe Architect // 3 Exploring Shapes

For step number three Colette has a look at shapes.

"Imagine you are designing an outfit. You begin with an empty croquis (fashion figure) as your base. You then begin adding lines to represent the overall shape and fit of the garments before adding color, texture, or details. That’s where we’re starting.

Each piece you wear has a distinct shape, and figuring out which ones make you feel good will go a long way toward helping you make more practical and satisfying choices."

It is all about which shapes you feel good in, what makes you feel comfortable and confident. So I filled in the worksheet and did this in a completely intuitive manner so I do not know how much sense it makes, but I am going to keep it here on the blog for future reference.

So we can definitely see that I do not like spaghetti straps (they just intensely remind me of junior high school) or halters (also here, too many negative associations). I like maxi on skirts and dresses (big love), but avoid midi length (because I feel it makes me look short and my legs fatish). I like a various amount of shapes on dresses, but do not like dropped waistlines (except of 1920s period pieces). On the tops and blouses front I am not particular specific, but I do not like cropped blouses and prefer looser fits. I like my blazers either fitted or boyfriend size, but am not a friend of boleros. I like somewhat loose cardigans I can just throw over a dress. I guess a fitted and cropped cardigan would be fine if accompanied by a pair of jeans with a high waistline or a vintage style dress. The questions about outerwear confuse me. I am not sure what exactly is meant. Coats? Or like stuff you wear when hiking? But I do know that "cropped" and anything I would wear in the "outside" do not go together (except for beachwear. Is that outerwear?).

Wardrobe Architect // 2 Defining a Core Style

The second chapter starts with some words of wisdom by Colette:

"It’s tempting to believe that you can define your ONE TRUE STYLE and never have to think about it again, but it defies common sense. We are people. We change, we grow.

However, there are some things that are so ingrained in our personality, tastes, and lives that they come up again and again, like refrains through our lives."

 The aim is "to uncover the style that makes you feel like yourself and attach words and images to them". To accomplish this, there is a worksheet you can download where you can collect feelings, icons and words describing your style. In the end, you should have 3-5 words that describe your style and transfer these into a visual of 12-15 images. 

I will not bore you with the entire word-finding process and present to you my moodboard:

5 words: classic, monochrome, ethnic, figure flattering/hugging, cool

Choosing 12-15 images is not easy. Deciding what goes in and what does not is quite tricky. For example, I do like color, but not too much. I do like and own "pretty" dresses, but they do not get that much wear. I like glitz and adore my New Years Eve sequin dress, but a once-in-a-year outfit shouldn't get a spot here. I think my collage turned out as a realistic representation of what I like on a daily basis, and as this exercise is all about finding my "core" style I think the lack of color and such is fine.

It will be interesting to see how this collage will change in the year ahead!